Two chicken buses plummeted straight for me, both pulling up with a screech, horns blowing like mad, the doorman shouting arriba", "eh...san salvador?", "si si", I had two seconds in the midst of their coastal chicken dash to decipher whether he was lying to get me on the bus as quickly as possible and win the race, or if he was simply saying "yes yes you idiot". I was pulled on the bus, having a laugh at the same time with some ladies who were helping me with my bag, everyone was involved, it was dangerously funny. Taking up two lanes we chased down the winding coastal road alongside the blue surf. As the race subsided we went deeper into the countries lush volcanic centre, passing papusa stalls and its pastel papermache skyline. Ah San Salvador, the savior.
Being such a small country, the easiest and most fun way to get around is on these chicken buses, pimped out american school coaches from the 70's. I picked up numerous phone numbers and generous offers to show me around on these rides, one guy offered to drive me the length and breath of the country; who said traveling as a solo chika would be difficult?! I*accepted one of these invitations from an older guy who just moved back to El Salvador after years in San Fransisco. I joined him, his 84 year old cousin and her friend at their house for customary 11am beers and tried again with my best spanish, beer helps. They showed me photos of their niece meeting the pope, I tried to act impressed, simply impressed with their hospitality. Named after the Savior himself I found El Salvador an entirely devoted country. Not once but three times on one of the tightly packed chicken rides was I questioned about my faith and did I believe in God, and with nowhere to escape I tried to explain...es complicado no?
Besides the friendly, curios and proud El Salvadorians themselves (well they are "the saviors" right?), this land of volcanos is really the most beautiful lush green clean country in Central America so far. We made the 4 hour climb up Volcan Santa Anna. The sweat paid off with amazing views in every direction; the pacific coast and its surf break, the Lago Coatepeque, the sparse black neighboring Volcan Izalco and the thick turquoise water of Santa Anna's crater. Throw a "kkooooiii" around one side of the crater and the echo slowly swings around as if there is a dozen other you's. Sparkling lakes to swim in, cool little towns, starry eyed skies, magnificent mountains and blue pacific coast, it's just a shame the savior hasn't helped them out when it comes to all those natural disasters, war and poverty El Salvador has suffered... or me when i lost my favorite hat.
Oh and did i mention the festival de gastronomi, oh the food...
*with tentative caution of course Catriona!
